2 the essence of…..Cusco, Peru.  

After a mere 7 days in Cusco, there are aspects of this amazing city which will forever help, in our minds, define it and our experience in it.  Noticing things that stand out was rather simple given the pronounced difference between this city and most, if not all, others that we have visited.  In any event, and in no particular order, here we go.  Note, however, that what is not included here is a discussion of the amazing Inca stonework which, above all else, defines this city. 

 

          Mantas.  These are the colorful, utilitarian, blankets used by the Quechuan and other women of Cusco for everything from keeping warm, to carrying babies, to carrying the wares they may be selling upon the street corners.  As far as we can tell, the very simple way they are used for carrying is as follows:  (1) the blanket, while laying flat on the ground, is loaded down with whatever load may be carried, with an emphasis on distributing most of the weight towards the “top” of the blanket, (2) all four corners of the blanket are gathered together as the blanket is slung upon the back, (3) the four corners are separated so that 2 corners are pulled over one shoulder while 2 corners are pulled over the other shoulder, (4) the four corners are “retied” together around the bearer’s neck, or otherwise secured, and (5) serious hauling begins.  It is as simple as that.  No baby carriages or baby “back-packs” around here.  If the kid can walk, great; otherwise, he or she is going to ride on a back in a manta.  Very simple, very elegant.    

 

 

 

 

          

 

 

    Taxi Horns.  Taxis are a ubiquitous presence in Cusco, and clog its narrow streets and pollute its air.  But they are efficient and cheap…the fixed fee for taxi rides in Cusco’s central district is 2 soles, or the equivalent of $0.70!  However, their use of their horns is enough to give any New York cabbie a run for his money.  Yet the way they use them is different than their brethren in NY.  While cabbies in NY (indeed, NY motorists generally) use their horns frequently and violently (typically accompanied by vitriolic expletives, various hand and arm gestures, and a general feeling of ill will), not so in Cusco.  Sure there is the occasional violent use of the horn, but the most common use is merely to announce to the world that they are available for hire.  Stand on any street corner, or near any street, and as sure as the sun will rise in the east, a Cusquenean taxi driver will honk his horn at you.  At first, the habit is somewhat startling and alarming, but ultimately you get used to it.  It is just part of the weave of the fabric that is Cusco.     

 

 

 

           Child Vendors.  Everywhere, and strikingly sad.  Typically, they are hawking postcards, but just as often they are selling shoeshines.  "Mi amigo, shoeshine, shoeshine...one sole."  It is no exaggeration to say that not less than 15-20 times a day, we are asked if we want our mud covered hiking boots shined.  Unfortunately, more often than not we must merely keep walking, replying one time with a cordial "No, gracias."  But keep walking and don't make eye contact; otherwise, they feel a surge of promise, and may follow you for up to a block with persistent pleas. And unlike other places where a suggested shoeshine is a ruse for something more ill-intentioned, here they really want to shine your shoes.  I shall wear my Teva sandals around town tomorrow and I am quite confident that even that will not dissuade our young amigos from insisting that they need a shine!

Sadly, however, this is merely symptomatic of one of the largest problems confronting Peru: poverty.  These children have to work to help feed themselves and their families.  We were fortunate enough to spend a day with Sergio and Yohn, each of whom, at the age of 13 and 10, work to help feed and clothe themselves.  Sergio sells candy between 6:00pm and 1:00am, after going to school between 1:00pm and 6:00pm each day.  Yohn sells postcards in the mornings and the evenings, going to school in the afternoon.  This is just their way of life; what they must do to survive day to day.

 

 

 

Here, Yohn and Sergio each enjoy a glass of Chicha, a maize based beverage, served to them out of the bucket by the young working girl on the right.

 

 

 

 

One of the kids we bought a postcard from is Alex.  Alex is ten years going on thirty.  Alex pulled out his stack of postcards for us to preview.  As we were looking at one which had a picture of a little boy and girl, Alex blurted out, "that is my sister and brother".   We told him that we did not believe him, but this did not stop him from bringing on the charm.  Alex wanted to share his knowledge of the United States as he said, "President-Bill Clinton, First Lady-Hillary Clinton, Girlfriend-Monica Lewinsky...She is trouble."

 

 

What is remarkable about these children, and Cusco generally, is that, despite the intense poverty they endure, they are working, and not begging, to get by.  We have remarked about the astonishing lack of beggars we have encountered here in Cusco--far less than what we both are used to in Atlanta or any other major United States city.  

Here the only thing the kids are begging for is to work.   .