The Middle East

19 April 2000--Cairo, Egypt

Today was one of the most enjoyable, and impressive, museum experiences we've ever had.

We were at the Egyptian Museum in downtown Cairo. Housing over 100,000 pieces, it is home to a rather daunting collection.

As you can guess, the objects are principally from ancient Egypt: artifacts from temples and tombs, tracing through all of Pharaonic Egypt. Most notable in the collection are the artifacts from the tomb of Tutankhamon--a/k/a King Tut--the same artifacts that toured the United States in 1975 to considerable cultural fanfare.

Not only are the items very aesthetically pleasing, but we consistently marveled at their age. With some of the items roughly 5000 (!) years old, and most of the notable items at least 3000 years old, reflecting on age alone is astounding. And these are not just flint stones, or pot shards, but rather paintings and carvings that give insight to a remarkably well-developed civilization. And to think that are own country, as we know it (exclusive of the original, Native American, settlers), is scarcely over 200 years old gives some real perspective.

What also added greatly to our enjoyment was buying a good guidebook. We plunked down the cash, with some hesitation, for a guidebook that proved its worth. It was organized as a tour of 50 of the museum's masterpieces, giving a photo and full description of each item, explaining the history, significance, and other circumstances relating to that item.

It helped immensely to make sense of the museum's enormous collection, focused our exploration, and taught us a great deal in the process. It was a perfect primer before we set out upon the rest of the country taking in the numerous tombs, temples and other archaeological sights. We find that unless you know the context and significance of what we are looking at, a museum experience can be very unfulfilling, so sucking it up for a guide or a good book rarely disappoints us.

If today is any indication, I think we are really going to dig Egypt.

20 April 2000--Cairo, Egypt

Perhaps it's attributable to an overzealous mosque attendant.

The 3:45 am prayer call at a mosque directly across the street, that is--perhaps it's attributable to an overzealous mosque attendant.

Maybe it's his first week on the job, and in his zest to faithfully performing his function of playing the prayer call at five intervals throughout the day--sunrise, noon, mid-afternoon, sunset, and night--his just jumping the gun and cranking the call a full 90 minutes before the sun is even thinking about rising.

The prayer calls the past two nights, each at roughly 3:45 am, have blasted through our partially opened window, waking us in each instance. Fortunately, they are mercifully brief and, given the circumstances and their cultural significance, actually novel.

And if people are actually praying at that time, then more power to them.

24 April 2000--Luxor, Egypt

In April 1996, seventeen tourists were gunned downed in the Cairo International Airport. In September 1997, ten tourists were killed on a tour bus outside of the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. And in November 1997, fifty-eight tourists were massacred in Luxor, perhaps the most heavily touristed city in Egypt, and the city we find ourselves in today.

This violence against tourists is reflective of a concerted campaign against tourism waged by members of the Gama’a all-Ilamiyya, Islamic extremists who declared tourism, and tourists, legitimate targets in its fight with the Egyptian government.

With a history and threat of terrorism that not only involves tourists but, more alarming, is directed at tourists, it is little wonder that Egypt does not ordinarily rank high on the list of appealing travel destinations.

And that is a pity, because we have found Egypt to be a wonderful place to travel. It is easily one of the favorite countries we have visited. Its wealth of archaeological treasures are unsurpassed, transportation is easy and efficient, the food is excellent and cheap, English is widely spoken, and the country boasts great beaches and some of the finest snorkeling and diving in the world.

But more impressive are the people, who may be the friendliest people of all the countries we have visited. A sincere “welcome in Egypt” is the common refrain from all manner of people we come across, whether in a restaurant, on a bus, or simply from a stranger walking by on the street.

What is also endearing about the people is their clear, heartfelt, desire that visitors enjoy their country. We often are asked if we like Egypt and, when we respond that we are having a fabulous time, you can see the pleasure and happiness on the face of the person who asked the question. Egyptian’s truly are concerned that we, as guests in their country, have a good time and enjoy the sights and people of their homeland.

This joy is similarly evident if you take the time to learn a little Arabic, the native language. Merely learning the most common Arabic greeting of “Salam” will always get any exchange off on the right foot, eliciting a smile and, often, the wonder-filled question “do you speak Arabic?”

While the specter of terrorism is never far from our minds--particularly since every tourist site includes at least one truckload of heavily armed members of the Egyptian Army on sentry solely to protect visitors--we have always felt very safe. And given that the risk of suffering from an act of terrorism is so statistically slight, for us it was not reason enough to stay away from this most rewarding of countries.

2 May 2000--Dahab, Egypt

OK, so it is times like these where we do begin feeling a little guilty about the lives we are currently living.

We are in Dahab, Egypt, a small beach town on the Gulf of Aqaba. The Gulf of Aqaba is a small channel of water which sprouts from the Red Sea, and on its shores sits Egypt, Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia. Indeed, from our window we can see across the Gulf to Saudi Arabia,

While you do not think of water and beaches when you think of Egypt, this land borders four principal bodies of water: the Mediterranean Sea, the Red Sea, the Gulf of Suez and the Gulf of Aqaba. In fact, Egypt's shores boast some of the best diving in the world. And one of Egypt's gems is Dahab.

Dahab is a sleepy town that caters to the independent, limited budget, traveler (i.e. backpacker). Beautifully situated on a crystal clear body of water, sandwiched between the barren mountains of the Sinai peninsula and Saudi Arabia across the Gulf, Dahab is the sort of place where we feel very comfortable.

It is in towns like this, where we are whole-heartedly focused on nothing but relaxation, where the joy of our daily existence is truly felt. No racing around trying to see sights, no haggling with cab drivers, and no train and bus schedules to decipher. Just simple decisions like, "do you want to go snorkeling again," "at which beachfront restaurant should we eat dinner" and "it's 9:00am--do you want to wake up now?"

No pressure to do a thing. Just live and enjoy.

Life is very, very good.

9 May 2000--Dahab, Egypt

Perhaps we got a little carried away with the relaxation thing, because 9 days after we have arrived, we are still in Dahab--having a great time, of course. Actually, Kelly wanted to leave today, as she was ancy to keep moving. I, on the other hand, have been thoroughly enjoying the relaxed pace and style of life we have been living for more than the past week.

Being on the road for as long as we have, when you get a break from the rigors and stress of daily travel (finding hotel rooms, deciphering bus schedules, racing from sight to sight [sounds horrible, doesn't it]) you really enjoy it. Particularly in a setting such as this one, where we have a million dollar view from our room, the pace of life is slow, the sun is always shining, the temperatures are comfortable, the stars bright at night, and the waters as turquoise as they come. If, before we started our journey, someone suggested we may spend more time on a beach in Egypt than just about anywhere else I would have said they were mad. But here we are....still.

15 May 2000--Jerusalem, Israel

Quite coincidentally we have made our crossing into Israel on the 52nd Anniversary--or close to it--of the establishment of the state of Israel.

The Palestinians call this very day "Nakba" day--Arabic for "catastrophe"--to commemorate (or more appropriately, protest) Israeli independence.

Commemorate they did, as the West Bank--through which we traveled this very day--erupted in the worst violence the region has seen in nearly four years.

And as we watch CNN reports on the clashes between Israeli Defense Forces and Palestinian Police and youths taking place mere miles away, the raging controversy takes on a new relevance and context. No longer will the West Bank and Gaza Strip be meaningless geographic descriptors; no longer will news footage of clashes in such areas receive an un-listening ear from me; and no longer will I be unconcerned with the efforts at reaching peace in the Middle East.

Indeed, that is one of the most satisfying, and rewarding, aspects of travel. It gives context and meaning in a way no book, no newspaper article, no television news story ever could.

It broadens and it educates.

19 May 2000--Jerusalem, Israel

I do not pretend to understand the conflict that is a perpetual characteristic of Israel's political conflict, both internal and with its Arab neighbors. And while our travels here and elsewhere in the region have no doubt taught us much, there is still so much to learn and understand, and our interest has been piqued.

What I have been surprised at is the extreme divisions within the Israeli political community itself. While I believe its safe to say that most everyone wants to achieve peace with the Palestinian and Arab community, the rub (as it always is) is how to achieve those ends. These types of disagreements seem to run rampant in Israel and, to me as a casual outsider, appear unusually divisive. Given the long, sad history of persecution of the Jewish people, to see such internal, heated, divisiveness was actually quite surprising.

It does cause me to believe that Israel (or perhaps the Middle East generally) may well be the breeding ground for the world's next great, historically significant and charismatic, timeless, leader. The equivalent of a Gandhi or a Martin Luther King, Someone who proves pivotal in leading this region to peace. The conflict is certainly intractable enough that only a powerful leader would have any chance of success.

Sadly, that leader may have been Yitzhak Rabin who on September 13, 1993, together with Palestinian Chairman Yassar Arafat, signed the Declaration of Principles (also known as the Oslo Accord) which was hoped to be the first, dramatic, step toward peace between Israel and the Palestinians.

Unfortunately, the life of Prime Minister Rabin was cut short by his assassination on November 4, 1995 by a young, Jewish extremist. Ironically, at the time of his murder, Rabin was leaving a peace rally in Tel Aviv titled "Yes to Peace, No to Violence."

20 May 2000--Jerusalem, Israel

When you travel to Israel, a swim--or make that a float--in the Dead Sea is a requisite on all itineraries. It is a sensation that cannot be replicated any where else in the world.

Today we joined one of the very popular Masada, Dead Sea, Jericho, etc...tours. Leaving at 3:30am, we were at the mountain fortress of Masada in time to climb it to watch a glorious sunrise over Jordan and the Dead Sea.

And then it was to the Dead Sea, which is also the lowest point on earth at over 1,100 feet below sea level.

What makes the Dead Sea "dead" is the very high concentration of minerals and salt in its water--in effect, it is more than a 30% solid substance. As a result, there are no fish, algae, or other life (though recently scientists have discovered certain strains of bacteria can survive in the Dead Sea).

As more than a 30% solid substance, as you enter the water you are amazingly buoyant--you literally float on top of the water, making it quite possible to float atop the water and, at the same time, read a book (as depicted on many postcards). The sensation really is one of a kind.

There is, however, another sensation. With all the minerals and salt, open cuts or abrasions--no matter how small--sting measurably. And pity you should some of the water find its way into your mouth (as it did mine); the water tastes horrible.

And the Dead Sea area is rather beautiful. Not at all the type of landscapes and views that the name "Dead Sea" evokes. Beautiful blue water, brown mountain peaks on all sides, occasional burst of green foliage, and generally great views. Rather pleasant.

21 May 2000--Jerusalem, Israel

Jerusalem is the most extraordinary place.

It is a city of great beauty, great history, great religion, great conflict.

We have been here seven days and still my thoughts about this city our coalescing. I suspect that this city, its vibe and energy, and its meaning will resonate within me for some time.

Perhaps it is the wealth of history and spirituality that makes any description of this city, or any attempt to convey to the non-visitor a sense of its soul, so dreadfully difficult and inadequate. What do you say about a city that within one square kilometer holds the holiest site to the Jewish faith, the holiest site to the Christian faith, and the third holiest site to the Islamic faith?

What do you say about a city which, together with perhaps Athens and Rome, has been the most critical and pivotal in the course of man's history and civilization?

What do you say about a city that has been fought over, contested, sieged, attacked, conquered and reconquered, and that currently lies at the heart of many of the woes that plague the Middle East and that make the Arab-Israeli conflict so intractable?

What do you say about a city that, at its core, includes a walled, old city, where the bulk of the great historical sites are located, and that is inhabited principally by persons of Arab descent, but that is administered and policed by Israelis?

What do you say about a city whose from which a short walk or bus ride brings you to the much disputed area known as the West Bank, seemingly belonging neither to Israel or Jordan, and where areas are administered and policed by Palestinians, with street names such as "Yassar Arafat."

What do you say about a city that is western and modern, where all the comforts of home (and the expense) are available, and a place where you think you could comfortably live?

What do you say about a city where Jesus held his Last Supper, and then was crucified, buried and resurrected?

You say, I suppose, that it is an extraordinary place.

28 May 2000--Tel Aviv, Israel

Tel Aviv is a pretty great city. A place we could actually live. It reminds us of a cross between Chicago and Miami. Sitting on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, its got great beaches, quaint neighborhoods, hundreds of restaurants, a thriving nightlife, and plenty of style.

One of the great benefits of the type of travel we are doing, where we have the time and luxury of spending 4 or 5 days in places like Tel Aviv (instead of bolting from place to place in an effort to "see everything before our 10 day vacation runs out"), is that it affords us the opportunity to gain a real sense of the city, its vibe, and its energy. You get to know the place in a way that is not possible in a quick shot. And that's a lot of fun.

30 May 2000--Jerusalem, Israel

Back in Jerusalem after over a week of travel through north and west Israel, ending with 4 days in Tel Aviv.

With any luck, we will be picking up our digital cameras tomorrow, both having been repaired by the authorized Nikon representative. And yes, I said cameras, plural. Two cameras are being repaired.

The first drop of the camera occurred at Volcan Arenal in Costa Rica. Plunk, our very expensive digital camera fell to the volcanic rock (a most unforgiving surface) and that was the end of it. The self loathing was remarkable, and justifiably, intense. But no worry, we were planning on returning to the US shortly thereafter and, as luck would have it, my Mom has the same camera. We would merely take hers, have ours repaired and, when the repair was finished, ship the newly repaired camera to my Mom.

And the plan worked well, as we have been using my Mom's camera since January.

Then, suddenly, the unthinkable happened. While at Petra in Jordan camera #2 fell to the ground. And since Petra is the lost city of stone, again the surface was most unforgiving and the camera was kaput. Again, intense self-loathing. I started to believe that I must be a loser, for only a loser could possibly be responsible for disabling 2 cameras the way I had.

But we had a solution. Camera #1, back in the States, was repaired. We will just have that one FedExed to us in Israel. We'd be a week without the digital camera, but then we'd be back in business.

So FedEx the camera we did, at considerable expense (roughly $120) and inconvenience. But having the digital camera was worth every penny.

With great anticipation we awaited the arrival of Camera #1; being without a camera in a city like Jerusalem was difficult. So many great shots that we were powerless to execute.

So Camera #1 arrived and, much to our relief, worked well. That is, it worked well enough to take 4 uninspiring practice shots, before it died again.

So here we are in Jerusalem with 2 expensive, and non-functioning, digital cameras. In essence, we were beside ourselves in grief, though we did remind ourselves that we were not traveling to take pictures, and taking pictures is merely a luxury.

[Note: What also made our non-functioning cameras totally insignificant was a news report we saw on CNN immediately thereafter. It described the war in Sierra Leone, and how rebels had been loping off the limbs of men, women and children to terrorize the public. The news report included footage of many of these poor people without hands, arms, feet and legs--sadistically brutalized for nothing. Seeing that report both saddened and enraged us at man's cruelty to man, and cut short immediately any tendency or inclination we may have had to feel sorry for ourselves about our "problems." It's always enlightening to gain a little perspective like that.]

To cut to the chase, we considered buying a new digital camera but found the price (roughly $1700 USD for a camera that currently costs less than $600USD in the States) prohibitive. And then the sales guy suggested we have them repaired, as their was a Nikon representative in Tel Aviv. So we decided to give that a shot.

So here we are. After close to 2 weeks, we expect to receive both cameras, repaired we hope, tomorrow. But I'm not being too optimistic. Its best to manage expectations in situations like this. I'd rather be pleasantly surprised than horribly disappointed.

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