2 Go Sicily Photos
Up Taormina Forza D'Agro

SICILY'S FIRST STOP:  PALERMO

From the Amalfi Coast we traveled back to Naples, from where we caught a night train to Palermo, a focus of Sicily.

Sicily is located below the big boot of Italy--as if the boot were about to kick it.  And that is how many Sicilians feel now and historically: that they have also been given short shrift from the rest of Italy.

Sicily is actually closer to Africa than it is to Rome.  Given its large size and strategic position, Sicily has been invaded from all sides for thousands of years. 

 It was first overrun by the Sicels and the Sicans, thus the name.  In the 8th century BC, the Greeks established Sicily as one of their most important colonies.  There are still the ruins of many Greek temples and theaters all around Sicily.  After they conquered the Greeks, the Romans made Sicily their first province.  Then came the Arabs who also left their mark on the big island.  They left oranges, pistachios and lemons.  The Normans then came in and built beautiful castles and cathedrals and left behind the blue-eyed gene.  The most recent foreign invaders were the Spanish and Austrians who ran Sicily from palaces in Palermo.  In 1864, Sicily became a part of Italy.  

 

 

The historical center of Palermo are the Quattro Canti, or Four Corners, where the corners are marked by four baroque facades (one of which is seen at left) adorned with intricate carvings and statutes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Palermo was once considered one of the most beautiful cities in all of Europe.  Yet the passage of time, and the bombs of World War II, have had their effect, and parts of the city are in decay.  Yet the city still is beautiful and retains much of its distinctive character, often because of the gradual decay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As on island on the sea, fish markets abound, where all sorts of fresh seafood can be purchased.  One distinctive fish seen on every fish merchant's table is swordfish, with its distinctive sword-like bill.  Sliced into hugh steaks, it looked like some good eating.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

La Mortorana is one of the prettiest churches in church heavy Palermo.  Decorated ornately with sculptures, carvings, and Byzantine mosaics remarkably preserved, it's an amazing site.  Italy is, of course, home to Catholicism, so as you would expect, amazing churches sit on virtually every corner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is the outside of the enormous Norman Cathedral.  We visited on a Sunday and actually stayed for Mass, something we have not been able to do in some time as for the last two months we have been traveling principally through Islamic countries.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alright, last church for now.  This is an example of the Byzantine mosaics at Monreale in the 12th century Cathedral of Santa Maria la Nuova.  This enormous place was covered with this wonderfully intricate mosaics--art made piece by little piece.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No discussion of Palermo and Sicily would be complete without talking about the Cosa Nostra, also known as the Mafiosa.  The Mafia remains a powerful force in Sicily, and Palermo is their capital.  In the last decade, politicians and judges began cracking down on the Mob, and many of those people ended up dead, some "swimming with the fishes" like Lou Cabrazzi.  Indeed, as you walk the streets of Palermo, you will occasionally see apartment buildings manned by machine gun toting police officers with bullet proof vests, perhaps indicating that a judge may live there (albeit not too comfortably).  Is this dashing guy with a nice suit, cool shades, and a very expensive automobile in the mob?  We didn't ask, but he looked as likely to be a fella as anyone, and we needed a picture for this discussion.

 

Speaking of wise-guys, one of the highlights of our travels through Sicily was the time that we spent in Forza D'Agro, a charming hill-top town and the film location for scenes in Godfather I and Godfather III.

But first, visit the fashionable resort town of Taormina.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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